Full-Service Cheese Counters Stake Their Claim in L.A.
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It’s like taking that first bite of a watermelon,” explains Leah Park Fierro as she slices into an 85-pound wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano. She’s standing behind the counter at Milkfarm, her new artisan cheese shop that’s a short bike ride from her Eagle Rock home. “The community has been waiting for a place like this,” says the 32-year-old former pastry chef, who after six years of working at the Cheese Store of Silverlake went off on her own.
Fierro is part of a new generation of young cheesemongers eager to take the full-service cheese counter from special-occasion destination to everyday neighborhood stop. Deli cases at upstart shops like Fierro’s may offer a smaller selection than the gourmet emporiums in Beverly Hills or Brentwood, but that’s the appeal: They’re less intimidating.